Friday, February 17, 2017

Pooping in the Great Outdoors, Volume 1: Mount Rainier

For those of you not familiar with the popular sitcom “The Office,” you may not have heard of a character named Dwight K. Schrute. In this case, you are doubtlessly unacquainted with Dwight’s particular brand of eccentricity, from his obsession with becoming the greatest paper salesman of all time to his abidance with the nineteenth century traditions of his Amish heritage. This last trait is surely responsible for one of his strangest lines, delivered as an aside to the audience while one of his colleagues clamors for two-ply toilet paper: “(…) don’t even get me started on how coddled the modern anus is.”

Dwight brings up an excellent point: gone are the days when our ancestors defecated in the woods, wiped their bums with a rock, and had never heard of bacteria. Indeed, our modern society now presents our anuses with all the conveniences of a day at the spa. Toilet paper is pleasant and soft, hand soap is thick and gooey, and toilets are plentiful throughout the land.

This brings me to my point –while I have no desire to revert to the middle ages on a permanent basis, I have found, throughout my adventures in the great outdoors, that some of the most horrifyingly funny situations arise precisely when our modern anuses stop being coddled.
Accordingly, my endeavor today is simple: to tell one of these hilarious stories.

                                                    

In June 2016, I embarked on an ascent of Mount Rainier, a 14,411-foot dormant volcano in Washington State.

Being a novice mountaineer, I had secured the services of a guiding outfit to manage the many dangers: weather, glacier crossing, crevasses, logistics, food, shelter, technical gear, etc. In the end, it was the first of these that toppled my attempt on the big mountain: weather.

The day preceding the start of our climb had been unbelievably clear. A mere tourist in Seattle, I had followed the throngs to the famous Space Needle, getting my first glimpse of the colossus from the observation deck –its contour sharply delineated and its lower slopes shimmering in the afternoon light, the mountain rose inexorably above the city. There was not a cloud in sight. That night, I went to sleep filled with dreams of an easy summit.

The following day was a different story. As the bus carried my fellow climbers and I to Paradise, the 5,400-foot start to the climb, gray clouds settled into the valleys and obscured the entire mass of the mountain (no small feat!) I stole peeks at the four guides to see if their expressions betrayed concern, but they only shone by their placidity. Still, I remained doubtful as to our chances of summiting in this weather. My hopes were further dashed when I overheard the senior guide, a gruff, mustachioed gentleman named Greg, grumbling about “June-uary.”

Soon we were climbing across the Muir snowfields in a single file, laden with fifty-pound rucksacks, as more gray clouds shut down mountaintop views in every direction. The ascent to Camp Muir (10,188 feet) took a grueling six hours. The wind rose and began howling, covering even the crunch of my double-mountaineering boots on the hard, compact snow. When we had reached 7,000 feet, it started snowing thick, heavy flakes, which the wind whipped right into our faces. Covered in GORE-TEX fabric, we continued trudging uphill and into the wind for hours, craving the safety of Camp Muir, which we finally reached a little before sundown.

It was a small, barren plateau carved into the side of the mountain, swept by snow-charged wind, its austere whiteness only punctuated by a few stone structures perched on its outer edges. We filed into a concrete hut, frozen to our core. It was a bleak sight –about ten square feet of common space, one low shelf to hang our packs, and three levels of concrete bunks. I spread my pad and sleeping bag into a corner and lay down, fatigue quickly sweeping over me.


The morning greeted us with more wind and snow, zero visibility, and, of course, grinding altitude headaches. Two of my teammates immediately announced that they were going no further –they would wait at Camp Muir for the team’s return in the company of one of our guides.

Down to six climbers and three guides, we roped up in teams of three and started across the Cowlitz Glacier, our crampons and ice axes creaking into the ice. We ascended a steep, rocky slope, then climbed across the Ingraham Glacier, reaching high camp in just a little over an hour. The views around us should have been magnificent, but we were climbing in almost whiteout conditions, and even the row of four bright yellow mountaineering tents were only visible from fifty feet away.

That night, as we huddled over our meal in the cook tent, our guides informed us that the conditions had created avalanche-prone slopes on the upper mountains, and that we would be going no further. We would spend the night at high camp and descend all the way down to Paradise in the morning.

Though I was bitterly disappointed, I quickly found myself preoccupied by other problems. For the past two days, I had been urinating into a large plastic bottle clearly labeled “urine,” and had not given much thought to what would be required should a bowel movement present itself. Based on the guides’ talk about “leave no trace” wilderness ethic, I knew I was in for much more than just digging a hole in the snow.

“So, uh,” I stammered. “What do we do if we have to, you know…poop?

Smirks blossomed across the cook tent.

“Ah,” said Greg with a grin, “we have a protocol for that, mandated by the National Park Service.”

He turned around and produced a thick, blue plastic bag, and a larger, white plastic bag.

“There are two ways to do this: the National Park way, and the smart way,” he said with relish as everyone (except me) chuckled. “First we’ll show you the National Park way, just so you can’t say we didn’t show it to you. Basically, you go in the snow, and then you scoop it up with the blue bag like with a doggie bag. Then you tie it off, and seal it into the white bag.”

Greg mimed all of these motions expertly as he went through them, like a steward aboard an airplane giving pre-flight safety instructions.

“Now, for the smart way. None of that scooping nonsense –the blue bag is pretty wide. You’re gonna want to spread that bad boy right over your butt cheeks and around your anus, and make a direct deposit. It’ll save you a lot of grief. Then same thing, you tie it off and seal it in the white bag.”

The entire tent exploded into laughter as Greg handed me the bags. Two of my fellow climbers slapped each other on the back, guffawing and repeating “direct deposit.”

“And, um, where do I, you know, go?” I asked, pulling on my snow goggles and face mask to hide the deep shade of red I was doubtlessly turning.

“Well, that’s why I built this,” said Greg with theater, throwing the tent flap open.

Fifty feet from camp, a chaste little snow wall faced away from the tents. Resigned to my humiliation, I climbed out of the tent and made my way over.

“Remember!” Greg yelled after me. “Direct deposit!”

Behind the wall, I squatted over the blue bag, exposing my lower half to the winds and the cold air. Great, I thought, now I’m definitely going to get frostbite on my ass. As I went about my business, I realized that the clouds had momentarily shifted, finally affording me a sweeping view of the landscape. Across the way stood Little Tahoma Peak, at 11,138 feet, a jagged pyramid of black, volcanic rock. Large piles of blue seracs, fissured by yawning crevasses, basked in golden evening light. I looked at the altimeter on my watch: 11,230 feet. It was not only the highest place (save for airplanes) in which I had ever gone number two, I decided, but also the most wildly beautiful.

Having made my “direct deposit” and trudged back to camp, I was met by Greg’s impish grin, as if he knew what I was preparing to ask him.

“So, what do I do with this?”

“Well,” he replied, “we have a strict ‘leave no trace’ wilderness ethic on this mountain. Anything that comes up with you has to come back down with you. In the morning, you can pack that up. For now, just put it somewhere where it won’t blow away.”

“You mean –I have to carry my crap back down to camp?”

“You got it.”

Finding no end to my humiliation, I slipped the blue bag under the tent and retired to my sleeping bag.

We slept a fitful sleep, troubled by cold, altitude, and fatigue. In the morning, we packed up camp under Greg’s attentive supervision. I am not sure if I was imagining it, but it seemed that he was keeping an eye on me. Perhaps he suspected that I was all too eager to “forget” my blue bag where I had put it. It was not a crazed notion after all –the tent I had hidden it under was staying for the next expedition, and with a pack, crampons, avalanche beacon, ice axe, helmet, harness, and a flurry of other pieces of gear to manage, who would have blamed me for forgetting my dump up at high camp?

“Hey,” Greg interrupted my silent scheming, “don’t forget your blue bag!”

More laughter rang across the camp.

“You remembered, huh?” I grumbled, reaching beneath the yellow tent.

“Oh it was easy. You’re the only one who actually went!”

I examined the bag. While the double bag kept the odor safely sealed, the whole package was frankly less than appealing. Though thick, both bags were exceedingly transparent, and my turd was plainly visible. It could not have been mistaken for a bag containing something else –this was clearly a bag containing, specifically, poop.

“Can I at least pack it in one of my side pockets?” I asked, hoping Greg would take mercy on me.

“Nope. You don't want it to fall out and into a crevasse now, do you? It’s gotta go in your pack.”

Resigned to embarrassment once more, I opened the main compartment of my rucksack and, right over my food bag, my spare clothes, and my toiletries, I packed my fresh brown trout.

The descent to Camp Muir was fairly straightforward. The weather had somewhat cleared, and we took in more sights of Little Tahoma and of the Ingraham and Cowlitz Glaciers. Once at camp, we reunited with our three companions who had sat out the storm in the shelter. We ate some food and prepared to go back down to Paradise.

Just as we were about to leave, Greg pulled me aside and showed me to a barrel.

“You can put your blue bag in there,” he said.

I opened the barrel, which contained what seemed like hundreds of thick blue bags, each enclosing its own unique monstrosity. I added my own and closed the lid, and then turned to Greg.

“So, what do they do with all the poop?”

“It gets taken down by helicopter every few days.”

Finally, this was too much for me. I exploded.

“You mean my shit is going to get helivaced from the mountain after I carried it,” I screamed, “while I gotta walk down the mountain on my blistered feet!?”

“Yup,” said Greg impassibly. “Boy, you don’t skip a beat!”

He turned around and started down after the group. I looked back at the upper mountain. Still wreathed in clouds, it betrayed nothing of its lordly secrets. I realized that I had not even seen its summit since standing on the observation deck of the Space Needle.

“Come on!” Greg called after me. “It's only three hours down to Paradise!”

Staunchly vanquished, I started down the mountain.